At Dar Housnia, you feel like you are staying with a Moroccan family in their riad. The riad is outside of the central part of the medina with its busy souk catering to tourists. While there are a few other riads near by, and certainly a lot to keep a tourist entertained, the neighbourhood is more a local one with markets and fruit stalls, and even a communal oven around the corner. You’re still a short walk to all the medina highlights.

With just six rooms, Dar Housnia has an intimate feel. You can book just one room, or any combination. The family suite — on several levels with a large living room, two bedrooms, and a private rooftop terrace — is particularly elegant. There are no locks on the doors (you are given a key for a small safe) and there are almost always people in the kitchen making delicious things. French is spoken much more than English.

The riad has a heated rooftop swimming pool, two decks for lounging, two covered sitting areas and a dining room (with fireplace) just off the central courtyard. There is also a massage room and small hammam should you wish to stay close for your scrub.

Each room, of course, is different from the next. Some have sunken bathtubs, some beautiful old-style rain showers. Red is a predominant theme with cushions and throw rugs brightening the otherwise pale rooms. Linens at Dar Housnia are wonderful, silky soft monogrammed cottons for your (very) firm bed.

There are heaters for the colder months, as well as a ceiling fan for when it gets hot. There’s no air conditioning, but the walls are so thick I think it would take a while for the heat to penetrate.

Breakfast is different every day and left for the time you request, either in the dining room or on the rooftop terrace. Don’t be late or your coffee might get cold!

 
It is easy to find La Sultana — one of the only medina area hotels that not only has a sign but a formal entranceway befitting a hotel of its stature. A car can take you within a few meters of the front door, another rarity in the medina.

But once you’re inside this sumptuous hotel, it can be a little tricky not to get lost! However, this is one of La Sultana’s delights.

You wander from courtyard to sitting room to pool to staircase to another pool. It is only when you’re on the giant (1500 square meters) terrace — it covers each of the five buildings that make up this 28-room hotel — that you can start to piece together how everything connects. If you want to get from A to B, rather than just explore the beautiful decor, there are helpful staff everywhere who will happily point you in the right direction or even take you where you’d like to go.

The hotel has abundant facilities and services, including several pools, a gym, even a cooking class. Meals are served by the main pool (heated) or on the terrace with its panoramic views (weather dependent). La Sultana’s chefs serve a menu with Moroccan, Asian and western influences. The spa is very popular with hotel guests and other visitors to Marrakech. It has three hammam rooms, three massage rooms, a pool, sauna, balneotherapy room, and several areas for making you feel relaxed and beautiful. I thoroughly enjoyed my Moroccan scrub.

Decor at La Sultana is opulent. In the public areas, the marble, zellige (mosaic) tiles, stained glass, carved plaster and wood, arches and chandeliers all come together to make you feel like you’re in a palace. Your eyes won’t know where to stop.

Suites and rooms are also full of colour and pattern. Mine, the tiger suite, even had paintings and carvings of the striped cat. Amenities included a fireplace, television with DVD/CD player, iPod station (30-pin), minibar (inclusive of soft drinks), safe and wifi. My bathroom, with heated marble floors, had several different areas, two copper sinks and an immense sculpted tub.

La Sultana is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World and of Great Hotels of the World, so you can expect everything to be done right. There’s a sister hotel with 11 rooms in Oualidia on Morocco’s Atlantic coast.